Jewel-setting.



H. HESS.

JEWEL SETTING.

APPLICATION FILED 111111227, 1908.

931,306. Patented Aug. 17,1909.

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HENRY HESS, OF PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TO HANSEN-BENNETT COMPANY, OF ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF RHODE ISLAND.

JEWEL-SETTING.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY Hnss, a citizen of the United States, residing at Providence, county of Providence, State of Rhode Island, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in J ewel-Settings, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

'My invention has for its object a new and improved process of setting jewels which shall be less laborious than the process heretofore in use and which shall also make it possible to produce a more secure and permanent setting for jewels.

It is particularly adapted for use in jewelry of the kind in which the stones or gems are set in thin pieces of metal which are struck up or died to the desired shape, the stones or gems being set in the top of the piece thus formed.

Heretofore so far as is known to me jewel settings of this class have been made by first striking up the piece to form the cwel setting, then indenting or clapping the top of the piece to form hollows at the points where the stones are to be set, then placing the stones in the said hollows, and finally working up around the stones by means of a hand tool a series of points or burs which hold the stones in place. This last operation has been performed by hand and requires very skilful operators and is a slow and laborious process.

My present invention affords a process by the employment of which it is possible to set jewels in settings of this kind without the necessity of this laborious hand process. Jewels set by my improved process are quite as secure as those set by the old process, and the expense for labor required is much less.

The invention will be fully understood from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, and the novel features are pointed out and clearly defined in the claims at the close of the specification.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a view of the piece struck up and ready to have the stones set therein. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the piece shown in elevation in Fig. l with the points struck up. Fig. 3 is a longitudinal section of the piece in the condition shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 4: shows the setting Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed June 27, 1908.

Patented Aug. 17, 1909.

Serial N 0. 440,710.

ready to receive the stones. Fig. 5 is a vertical section of the completed setting with the stones in place.

Referring to the drawings,there is shown at A, Fig. 1, a portion or link of a bracelet which is designed to be ornamented with stones or gems. This piece is formed in the well known manner in dies. Prongs B, B, for each stone are then cut from the metal composing the piece A and the said prongs B, B, are bent up into the position shown in Fig. 3. The number of prongs B, B, for each stone will vary according to circumstances and the requirements of the setting. In the drawings, I have shown three for each stone. An indentation O is then made at the place Where each stone is to be located and between each of the sets of prongs B, B. This step is also performed by a suitable punch and die and is known by the name of clapping. The setting is now ready to receive the stone. The stones are then placed in the sockets formed by the indentations O and the corresponding prongs B and secured in place by bending the prongs B over the edge of the jewel. This operation requires to be performed by hand, but is a very easy one and requires little or no skill.

By the employment of my improved process I am enabled to set the jewels much more rapidly than has heretofore been pos sible and with the employment of cheaper labor, while at the same time the jewels set in accordance with my improved process are quite as securely held in place and present as good an appearance as jewels set by the old and well known processes.

3 V hat I claim is:

1. The improved process of setting jewels in thin sheet metal which consists in first striking up prongs out of the plain surface of the metal around the place where the jewel is to be set and before the seat is formed, then forming an indentation by bending down the sheet metal between the prongs with a die to form a seat for the jewel, then placing the jewel therein and then bending the prongs against the jewel.

2. The improved method of setting jewels in thin sheet metal which consists in first striking up prongs out of the plain surface of the metal around the place where the jewel is to be set and before the seat is formed, then forming an indentation by tions being produced wholl bending down the sheet met-a1 between the prongs with a die to form a seat for the jewel, then placing the jewel therein and then bending the prongs against the jewel, the indentations which form the seats for the jewels forming corresponding projections on the under side, the prongs and indentathe shape Without loss of metal;

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature, in presence of two Witnesses.

' HENRY HESS.

V by changing \Vitnesses J OHN H. PARKER, ALICE H. MonnisoN. 

